Survival Food - Part Two
(Adapted from the U.S. Army Survival Manual)
TRAPS AND SNARES
Several well-placed traps have the potential to catch much
more game than a man with a rifle is likely to shoot.
To be effective with any type of trap or snare, you must -
Be familiar with the species of animal you intend to catch.
Be capable of constructing a proper trap.
Not alarm the prey by leaving signs of your presence.
There are no catchall traps you can set for all animals. You
must determine what species are in a given area and set your
traps specifically with those animals in mind. Look for the following:
Runs and trails.
Chewed or rubbed vegetation.
Nesting or roosting sites.
Feeding and watering areas.
Position your traps and snares where there is proof that animals
pass through. You must determine if it is a "run" or
a "trail." A trail will show signs of use by several
species and will be rather distinct. A run is usually smaller
and less distinct and will only contain signs of one species.
You may construct a perfect snare, but it will not catch anything
if haphazardly placed in the woods. Animals have bedding areas,
water holes, and feeding areas with trails leading from one to
another. You must place snares and traps around these areas to
It is important not to create a disturbance that will alarm
the animal and cause it to avoid the trap. Therefore, if you
must dig, remove all fresh dirt from the area. Most animals will
instinctively avoid a pitfall-type trap. Prepare the various
parts of a trap or snare away from the site, carry them in, and
set them up. Such actions make it easier to avoid disturbing
the local vegetation, thereby alerting the prey. Do not use freshly
cut, live vegetation to construct a trap or snare. Freshly cut
vegetation will "bleed" sap that has an odor the prey
will be able to smell. It is an alarm signal to the animal.
You must remove or mask the human scent on and around the
trap you set. Although birds do not have a developed sense of
smell, nearly all mammals depend on smell even more than on sight.
Even the slightest human scent on a trap will alarm the prey
and cause it to avoid the area. Actually removing the scent from
a trap is difficult but masking it is relatively easy. Use the
fluid from the gall and urine bladders of previous kills. Do
not use human urine. Mud, particularly from an area with plenty
of rotting vegetation, is also good. Use it to coat your hands
when handling the trap and to coat the trap when setting it.
In nearly all parts of the world, animals know the smell of
burned vegetation and smoke. It is only when a fire is actually
burning that they become alarmed. Therefore, smoking the trap
parts is an effective means to mask your scent. If one of the
above techniques is not practical, and if time permits, allow
a trap to weather for a few days and then set it. Do not handle
a trap while it is weathering. When you position the trap, camouflage
it as naturally as possible to prevent detection by the enemy
and to avoid alarming the prey.
Traps or snares placed on a trail or run should use channelization.
To build a channel, construct a funnel-shaped barrier extending
from the sides of the trail toward the trap, with the narrowest
part nearest the trap. Channelization should be inconspicuous
to avoid alerting the prey. As the animal gets to the trap, it
cannot turn left or right and continues into the trap. Few wild
animals will back up, preferring to face the direction of travel.
Channelization does not have to be an impassable barrier.
You only have to make it inconvenient for the animal to go over
or through the barrier. For best effect, the channelization should
reduce the trails width to just slightly wider than the
targeted animals body. Maintain this constriction at least
as far back from the trap as the animals body length, then
begin the widening toward the mouth of the funnel.
Use of Bait
Baiting a trap or snare increases your chances of catching
an animal. When catching fish, you must bait nearly all the devices.
Success with an unbaited trap depends on its placement in a good
location. A baited trap can actually draw animals to it. The
bait should be something the animal knows. This bait, however,
should not be so readily available in the immediate area that
the animal can get it close by. For example, baiting a trap with
corn in the middle of a corn field would not be likely to work.
Likewise, if corn is not grown in the region, a corn-baited trap
may arouse an animals curiosity and keep it alerted while
it ponders the strange food. Under such circumstances it may
not go for the bait. One bait that works well on small mammals
is the peanut butter. Salt is also a good bait. When using such
baits, scatter bits of it around the trap to give the prey a
chance to sample it and develop a craving for it. The animal
will then overcome some of its caution before it gets to the
If you set and bait a trap for one species but another species
takes the bait without being caught, try to determine what the
animal was. Then set a proper trap for that animal, using the
Note: Once you have successfully trapped an animal, you will
not only gain confidence in your ability, you also will have
resupplied yourself with bait for several more traps.
Trap and Snare Construction
Traps and snares crush, choke, hang, or entangle the prey.
A single trap or snare will commonly incorporate two or more
of these principles. The mechanisms that provide power to the
trap are almost always very simple. The struggling victim, the
force of gravity, or a bent saplings tension provides the
The heart of any trap or snare is the trigger. When planning
a trap or snare, ask yourself how it should affect the prey,
what is the source of power, and what will be the most efficient
trigger. Your answers will help you devise a specific trap for
a specific species. Traps are designed to catch and hold or to
catch and kill. Snares are traps that incorporate a noose to
accomplish either function.
A simple snare consists of a noose placed over a trail or
den hole and attached to a firmly planted stake. If the noose
is some type of cordage placed upright on a game trail, use small
twigs or blades of grass to hold it up. Filaments from spider
webs are excellent for holding nooses open. Make sure the noose
is large enough to pass freely over the animals head. As
the animal continues to move, the noose tightens around its neck.
The more the animal struggles, the tighter the noose gets. This
type of snare usually does not kill the animal. If you use cordage,
it may loosen enough to slip off the animals neck. Wire
is therefore the best choice for a simple snare.
Use a drag noose on an animal run. Place forked sticks on
either side of the run and lay a sturdy cross member across them.
Tie the noose to the cross member and hang it at a height above
the animals head. (Nooses designed to catch by the head
should never be low enough for the prey to step into with a foot.)
As the noose tightens around the animals neck, the animal
pulls the cross member from the forked sticks and drags it along.
The surrounding vegetation quickly catches the cross member and
the animal becomes entangled.
A simple twitch-up snare uses two forked sticks, each with
a long and short leg (Figure 8-7). Bend the twitch-up and mark
the trail below it. Drive the long leg of one forked stick firmly
into the ground at that point. Ensure the cut on the short leg
of this stick is parallel to the ground. Tie the long leg of
the remaining forked stick to a piece of cordage secured to the
twitch-up. Cut the short leg so that it catches on the short
leg of the other forked stick. Extend a noose over the trail.
Set the trap by bending the twitch-up and engaging the short
legs of the forked sticks. When an animal catches its head in
the noose, it pulls the forked sticks apart, allowing the twitch-up
to spring up and hang the prey.
Note: Do not use green sticks for the trigger. The sap that
oozes out could glue them together.
Steve's Notes: If you have trouble with your traps,
don't forget about porcupines, one of the few animals you can
easily kill with a stick.
Continued here: Survival Food
- Part Three.
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